6 Days in Rome: Day 4 – A Lavish Breakfast, Hair Salon Time, Great Food, and a Few Landmarks
In the first part of this 6-day Rome itinerary, I shared tips on which cultural and historical sights you can see without paying an entry fee, some fun facts, and great places to eat. In Part 2 (Day 2), I explored the bohemian Trastevere district, the Vatican, and plenty of delicious food and wine. Day 3 was all about relaxed wandering through Rome’s charming streets and visiting three major landmarks.
After three action-packed days, I decided to take day four a bit more slowly. It was also my personal celebration day, so I gave myself some well-deserved me-time. While the rest of the group enjoyed a slow, indulgent breakfast at our apartment, I had a hair salon appointment booked.
Hair Salon in Rome – A Bit of Drama, But a Great Result
Toni & Guy might be just a name to some, but to fashion-savvy folks, it’s an institution. Their Rome salon looks as stylish and pleasant as their London base. Booking the appointment was a bit of a mini-series: I still hadn’t received confirmation 45 minutes before the slot. Eventually, I got the green light and rushed over – only to wait another 15 minutes there. They served me coffee, pitched a bunch of hair products (I bought one – turned out fantastic), and overall, the result was perfectly fine.
Wine, Good Food, and 80s Vibes at Retrobottega
Post-hair session, it was lunchtime. We visited Retrobottega – a place that sounds retro but actually has a very modern urban vibe. The kitchen is open, the wine flows by the glass, and the food is inventive and delicious. Add in a playlist of ’80s hits, and you’ve got a great lunch atmosphere.
Fun fact: Retrobottega literally means “the back workshop” – and yes, there’s a back room that now serves as a dining space.
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Castel Sant’Angelo – Rooftop Views and Secret Passages
Next, we added some history to our itinerary and headed to Castel Sant’Angelo. It’s perfect for anyone who wants a high-up view of Rome’s domes and especially the Vatican.
There’s a small entrance fee, and you might have to queue a bit. You ascend on foot, but the slope is gentle and not tiring. One of the upper levels has a lovely cafe where you can enjoy coffee or a cocktail with a view.
Originally built between 135 and 139 AD as a mausoleum for Emperor Hadrian and his family, Castel Sant’Angelo later became a fortress, papal residence, prison, and finally a museum in 1901.
Fun fact: The castle is connected to the Vatican via a secret covered passage known as the Passetto di Borgo. Built in 1277 by Pope Nicholas III, it served as an escape route for popes in times of danger. Most famously, Pope Clement VII used it in 1527 to flee during the Sack of Rome by the troops of Charles V.
We didn’t spend much time in the museum rooms – we were far more interested in the view from above.
Glasses With a Story at Spectacular Vintage
Before our next cultural stop, we stumbled across a hidden gem for vintage lovers – Spectacular Vintage, a boutique store on Via dei Coronari. Owner Vincenzo is a passionate collector with over 90,000 pairs of glasses from the 1950s to the early 2000s. Some models cost just €70 and look like they walked out of a fashion shoot. Buy two? You get a discount. Others, like rare Dior, Gucci, Versace, or Cartier frames, are more expensive.
Vincenzo is always happy to share his passion, help you pick what suits you best, and cut a deal if you take more than one pair.
Fun fact: He refreshes the store window every week, so each visit feels like a new discovery.
Museo Nazionale Romano, Palazzo Altemps – Ancient Art Without the Crowds
After shopping, we continued to our original destination. Palazzo Altemps is one of four locations of the Museo Nazionale Romano and sits near Piazza Navona. Built in the 15th century and expanded by Cardinal Marco Sittico Altemps in 1568, the palace now houses an exceptional collection of ancient sculptures from aristocratic families like the Altemps, Boncompagni Ludovisi, Mattei, and Del Drago.
Fun fact: One of its highlights is the statue The Galatian Killing Himself and His Wife (aka Ludovisi Gaul). This powerful piece shows a Gallic warrior killing his wife, then himself to avoid capture. It’s believed to be a Roman marble copy of a lost Greek bronze from the 3rd century BCE. It’s a stunning example of Hellenistic sculpture’s emotional intensity and realism.
The museum is small, calm, and pleasantly cool – a welcome break from the crowds. The statues feel almost lifelike. You can tour the rooms quickly and even relax for a while in the quiet little courtyard.
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Delicious Dinner at Hosteria Grappolo D’oro With Surprisingly Good Prices
After a rest at the apartment, we headed out for dinner – this time with a reservation at Hosteria Grappolo D’oro. This spot offers traditional Roman cuisine with a modern twist, all made with seasonal, local ingredients from small producers in the spirit of the Slow Food movement.
Prices are very reasonable, and the wine list is excellent. I highly recommend this place, located close to Campo dei Fiori.
Fun fact: The restaurant offers a 3-course tasting menu for just €36 – delicious, filling, and great value.
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Ending the Day: Prosciutto, Chocolate, and Wine at the Apartment
Of course, we ended the day as we should – with a glass of wine, locally made chocolate truffles, and a long, happy conversation about the day around the big island table in our apartment.
In the next post, you’ll find the short itinerary for day 5 in Rome, when we had a picnic in the park at Villa Borghese.
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